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Old Fabric Pieces: Gold Brocade and Chintz

[Image]

People did not only collect paper items in harikomi-chō: some scrapbooks also contained pieces of clothing fabric. One of the two scrapbooks exhibited here, Collection of Old Kinran Textiles, contains pieces of gold brocade (kinran), a type of silk textile with gold threads woven in. The other, Ad Hoc Collection of Sarasa Textiles, contains pieces of the dyed textile chintz (sarasa).

Collection of Old Kinran Textiles

Kaga Collection 5452

This is a collection of approximately 120 textile samples in a sample book called a kire-tekagami. Most of the pieces are kinran (gold brocade) and  donsu (satin damask), and some of the names provided for them match the category of meibutsu-gire: textiles originating from China such as kinran, donsu, and kandō that were highly valued by practitioners of Japanese tea ceremony for use in mounting hanging scrolls and holders for tea ceremony implements, and given affectionate names.

[Image]Collection of Old Kinran Textiles 1

[Image]Collection of Old Kinran Textiles 2

Kōya-gire Textile

Nara-gire Textile

[Image]Kōya-gire Textile Nara-gire Textile

Daikoku-gire Textile

Daitō Textile

[Image]Daikoku-gire Textile Daitō Textile

The term meibutsu-gire came into use to refer to highly valued textiles for use in the tea ceremony following the inclusion of a meibutsu-gire section in the Illustrated Compendium of Renowned Tea Ceremony Implements of Past and Present (kokon meibutsu ruijū) compiled by Matsudaira Fumai (1751-1818) and published in the years 1787-1797. Some of the samples in the Collection of Old Kinran Textiles match the names of those mentioned in Matsudaira's Compendium: specifically, kōya-giredaikokuya-gire, and daitō.

Ad Hoc Collection of Sarasa Textiles

Collection of Special Acquisitions 5497

[Image]Ad Hoc Collection of Sarasa Textiles

This scrapbook contains a varied collection of around 40 sarasa (chintz) textile samples of all sizes. Sarasa textiles are made of cotton and decorated with patterns including flora, fauna, and people, which are dyed into the fabric using stencils or hand-drawn designs. They spread throughout the world following the establishment of East India Companies by Europeans in the 1600s.

Ad Hoc Collection of Sarasa Textiles

[Image]Ad Hoc Collection of Sarasa Textiles

On the inside cover of the Ad Hoc Collection of Sarasa Textiles is text written in ink saying this is a scrapbook of various sarasa fabrics collected freely and impulsively by a person known as "Suien" (Hachiya Mokitsu, 1795-1873). Suien was a vassal of the Tayasu Household, one of the three cadet branches of the Tokugawa clan, and a renowned essayist. If this scrapbook was indeed compiled by Suien, it is indeed a work of great interest.

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